If your foundation pills or looks patchy during the day, the problem often starts in the skincare layers underneath. Three things are decisive in skincare before make-up: the order of the layers, the wait between them and applying enough sunscreen.
In short: The order before make-up is gentle cleansing, one optional serum, moisturiser, sunscreen and then make-up. The AAD recommends applying sunscreen about 15 minutes before going outside; you can do your make-up during this time. In a study that examined pilling, it was seen most often after the sunscreen step and with circular or back-and-forth rubbing. Make-up does not replace sunscreen.
In what order should you apply skincare before make-up?
The order goes from fluid to richer textures, and sunscreen is the last skincare step; make-up goes on top of it. The routine builder can also put together a morning order for your skin type.
- Cleanse. Wash your face with a gentle cleanser and pat it dry with a towel.
- One serum (optional). For the look of pores and shine on oily and combination skin, Hi Girls Bye Pores Pore Serum (10% niacinamide + 0.5% zinc PCA). Wait for it to absorb.
- Moisturise. Any Time Of Day Water-Based Moisturising Cream is silicone-free; it contains 5% niacinamide and 2% 8D hyaluronic acid. On oily skin, a thin layer is enough.
- Apply sunscreen. For the face, use enough to cover the length of your index and middle fingers, and do not use less because you are going to wear make-up. The finger measure is explained in detail in our guide to how much sunscreen to use on the face.
- Apply make-up. Apply foundation or concealer without rubbing hard.
In the evening, when taking off these layers, you can follow the steps for using a foaming cleanser.
Why does skincare pill under make-up?
Pilling usually starts after the sunscreen step; the condition of the skin and the way the product is applied also play a part. In a study examining the causes of pilling, most cases were seen after sunscreen, while pilling related to foundation was rare; in most cases, foundation reduced the pilling caused by sunscreen. People who experienced pilling with both sunscreen and foundation had skin that was less hydrated and less oily, with a higher pH and a smoother texture.
The study did not test prevention methods separately; two practical points can be drawn from the findings:
- In the study, pilling was seen most often with circular or back-and-forth rubbing; spread sunscreen so that it covers the whole face, without rubbing hard.
- Because pilling was associated with drier skin, do not skip the moisturiser step if your skin is dry and does not get oily.
Two general precautions can be added to these: using fewer layers in the morning (one serum is often enough) and moving on to the next product only after the previous one has settled.
How long should you wait before applying make-up?
No separate waiting time has been defined for make-up; what matters is applying sunscreen about 15 minutes before going outside. The AAD bases this interval on the fact that it takes about 15 minutes for the skin to absorb sunscreen and for the sunscreen to start protecting; you can do your make-up during this time. No specific time is given for serum and moisturiser either: move on to the next layer once the product has absorbed.
Can make-up or a foundation with SPF replace sunscreen?
No; make-up is an extra layer on top of sunscreen, not a substitute for it. In a laboratory study that mimicked real-life use, when sunscreens and make-up products were applied in the amount consumers usually use, which is less than recommended, the measured SPF of both fell far below the labelled value; the drop was proportionally greater for high-SPF products. When make-up was layered over sunscreen, however, the effective protection increased markedly compared with each product applied on its own. The researchers attribute this to an additional source of UV protection and more even coverage.
The conclusion cuts both ways: a foundation with SPF on its own is usually not applied in an amount that would give the face the protection stated on the label, but it does add to the protection when it goes on top of enough sunscreen. The basic protection comes from sunscreen applied in the right amount.
Which layers should you use before make-up for your skin type?
Your skin type determines your choice of serum and moisturiser. Three example morning orders with s'hevec products:
| Skin | Serum | Moisturiser |
|---|---|---|
| Oily | Hi Girls Bye Pores | Any Time Of Day, thin layer |
| Combination, normal | Optional | Any Time Of Day |
| Dry | Hydra Back Baby | Any Time Of Day |
- In the oily skin order, Hi Girls Bye Pores and Any Time Of Day both contain niacinamide. Rather than starting both on the same morning, add one to your routine first; if stinging or redness under make-up does not settle, stop the product you added last. This way, you can tell which one is causing the problem.
- On dry skin, a moisturiser goes on top of Hydra Back Baby (2% 8D hyaluronic acid + 1.2% Pentavitin).
Sunscreen is the last skincare step in every order; which one to choose depends on the finish you want under make-up. The differences in texture and finish across s'hevec sun products are brought together in the hybrid sunscreen comparison table. For those looking for a make-up base, Crush On Pink SPF 50+ Pink-Tinted Sunscreen forms the first layer. The pink colour is a feature of the texture; it is not a foundation or a concealer. All the options can be compared by finish in our SPF 50+ sunscreens collection. How the pink texture is layered as a base is explained step by step in our guide to using a pink sunscreen.
When should you see a doctor?
In make-up preparation, the clearest situation that calls for a doctor is an infected eye. The FDA notes that eye-area products have a shorter shelf life and can cause the eyes to become infected, which may be serious. If your eye is infected, see your doctor; the FDA recommends stopping all eye-area make-up products during this time and throwing away the ones you used while the eye was infected.
Frequently asked questions
Can you mix moisturiser and sunscreen before applying them?
This is not recommended. In a mixture, it becomes unclear how much sunscreen ends up on your face; the measure above applies to sunscreen alone, so sunscreen is applied as a separate layer.
Can you skip moisturiser before make-up if you have oily skin?
This is not recommended. In the study on pilling, the skin of those who had problems was less hydrated; this is why moisturiser keeps its place in the order before make-up on oily skin too. Any Time Of Day is water-based and silicone-free; a thin layer under make-up is enough.
Do you need sunscreen under make-up on cloudy days?
Yes. According to the AAD, the skin is exposed to UV rays every time you go outside, including on cloudy days and in winter.
Can a moisturiser replace sunscreen?
A moisturiser without an SPF claim cannot. Any Time Of Day is not a sunscreen; in the morning, apply sunscreen on top of it as a separate step.
Does a matte sunscreen completely prevent shine under make-up?
No. Matte's Up? SPF 50+ Mattifying Sunscreen contains niacinamide and zinc PCA, but it does not stop sebum production; with its matte finish and its ingredients, it helps balance the look of shine during the day.
Sources
- Lua BL et al. Understanding the causes of skincare product pilling. Skin Res Technol. 2024.
- Kim MA et al. Layering sunscreen with facial makeup enhances its sun protection factor under real-use conditions. Skin Res Technol. 2021.
- American Academy of Dermatology (AAD). How to apply sunscreen.
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA). Shelf Life and Expiration Dating of Cosmetics.
This content is for information only and does not replace medical advice. s'hevec products are cosmetic products and are not intended for medical treatment. It was prepared by the s'hevec Team on the basis of the s'hevec product data library and the sources listed above.
