Not every mark left behind after a breakout clears is the same: some are only a difference in colour, while others are a change that remains in the skin's texture. Which one you are dealing with determines from the outset how much cosmetic care can help.
In short: A post-blemish mark (colour mark) sits level with the skin's surface; it looks pink, reddish or brown and cannot be felt with a fingertip. A blemish scar (textured scar) is pitted or raised. For a colour mark, start with a single dark spot product in the evening; sunscreen is the last step in the morning and helps prevent the colour from darkening. Creams, serums and at-home peels do not correct a textured scar; it needs a doctor's assessment.
What is the difference between a blemish scar and a post-blemish mark?
The difference lies in the texture: a mark shows only as colour and is level with the surface, while a scar leaves a dip or a bump in the skin. In everyday speech both are often called “scars”; you can tell them apart with a fingertip: if you feel no dip or bump when you run your finger over it, it is most likely a colour mark.
| Type of mark | How to tell | Can cosmetic care help? | s'hevec option |
|---|---|---|---|
| Red colour mark | Flat; pink or reddish | Can help reduce its appearance | Shine On You |
| Dark colour mark | Flat; brown or a dark shade | Can help reduce its appearance | Hit The Spot |
| Colour mark with dullness | Flat; overall uneven tone | Can support a more radiant look | Rice You Up (in the morning if you use Hit The Spot in the evening) |
| Pitted scar | A sunken area in the skin's texture | No | None; needs a doctor's assessment |
| Raised scar | A raised area in the skin's texture | No | None; needs a doctor's assessment |
Sun spots and overall uneven tone are a separate topic; for their causes, see what causes dark spots on the skin.
Do post-blemish marks fade on their own?
Colour marks can fade over time; how long this takes varies from person to person. According to the AAD, the flat mark left after a breakout can be pink, red, purple, brown or almost black; it is often mistaken for a pitted scar and fades on its own over time, and the darker the mark, the longer it takes to fade. Two habits make this colour more noticeable: squeezing a breakout or picking off its scab increases irritation, and unprotected sun exposure can make the colour look darker. A review on sunscreens summarises the evidence on how effective these products are in preventing uneven pigmentation. This is why sunscreen is a morning step in its own right, whichever dark spot product you use.
Red mark or dark mark: which product should you start with?
The dominant colour of the mark decides: if the look of redness dominates, it makes more sense to start with Shine On You; if a brown tone dominates, start with Hit The Spot. You will find other options for colour marks in our collection of products for the look of dark spots.
- Shine On You Azelaic Acid Cream: 7% azelaic acid and 3% niacinamide; used in the evening. In the ingredient list, azelaic acid comes second, straight after water. A review describes azelaic acid's ability to inhibit melanin formation, as well as its antioxidant and soothing effects; we cover the ingredient itself separately in what is azelaic acid and what does it do for the skin.
- Hit The Spot Dark Spot Serum: 2% tranexamic acid and 2% alpha arbutin, supported by niacinamide; preferably used in the evening. Tranexamic acid is a synthetic derivative of the amino acid lysine; a review reports that, because of its soothing properties and its ability to inhibit melanin formation, it is used in dermatology for a range of tone concerns, including the look of dark post-blemish marks, and that it can also be applied topically.
- Rice You Up Brightening Serum with Niacinamide and Rice Extract: 5% niacinamide and 5% rice extract; morning or evening. Its ingredient list also includes tranexamic acid; if you use Hit The Spot in the evening, move Rice You Up to the morning so that each product has its own time slot.
Our guide how to use azelaic acid cream covers the application steps for Shine On You, how often to use it and where it goes in relation to other products.
How do you build a routine for post-blemish colour marks?
A routine for colour marks is built on a single dark spot product in the evening and sunscreen every morning; there is no need to layer several actives on the same evening.
- In the evening, wash your face with a gentle cleanser and dry it completely.
- Apply the dark spot product you have chosen: a thin layer of Shine On You or 3–4 drops of Hit The Spot. Shine On You is used every other evening for the first few weeks; Hit The Spot can be used every evening, and on sensitive skin you start with a few evenings a week. Keep it away from the eye and lip area.
- If your skin feels tight, add a moisturiser.
- In the morning, after cleansing, apply Rice You Up if you wish, then a moisturiser and, as the last step, sunscreen; if you are outdoors, reapply sunscreen during the day.
- Do not squeeze or rub the mark, and do not combine your dark spot product with a strong acid peel on the same evening.
If you are still getting new breakouts, first establish a basic routine that targets the look of blemishes; the steps are in a skincare routine for blemish-prone skin.
Does an acid peel help post-blemish marks?
Surface exfoliation can help reduce the look of a colour mark, but it is not an essential step and it does not correct a pitted scar. Products containing AHAs help clear away dead cells from the surface; the FDA recommends that the labels of these products carry a sun warning. AHAs can increase the skin's sensitivity to the sun: apply sunscreen every morning while using this product and for one week after you stop. If your skin is irritated, start with the simple routine above rather than a peel.
Can a cream correct pitted blemish scars?
No. Pitted or raised scars are a structural change in the skin's texture; a cream, serum, toner or at-home peel does not change this structure. The options for these scars are procedures carried out in a clinic following a doctor's assessment. A skincare routine can only help reduce the look of the colour difference around these scars; it does not change the texture itself.
When should you see a doctor?
- If marks are becoming pitted or raised.
- If your breakouts regularly leave marks.
- If blemishes are painful, deep or widespread.
- If a mole or lesion on your skin darkens, grows or changes shape within a short time.
Frequently asked questions
Do you need two products if red and dark marks are in the same place?
Not at first. The concerns Shine On You addresses cover the look of dark spots, redness and post-blemish marks together; if both tones are present, starting with a single product also makes it easier to watch how your skin responds. If you later want to add Hit The Spot, you will find the order of use in the Shine On You guide linked above (how to use azelaic acid cream).
Does squeezing a breakout leave a mark?
It can. The AAD notes that picking at whiteheads can lead to new blemishes and scarring, and that squeezing a blackhead can cause the area to become infected or leave a scar. Do not apply a dark spot product to a squeezed area until the redness and scab have gone; do not skip sunscreen, though.
Can you apply a dark spot product over a scabbed or irritated mark?
No. The warnings for Shine On You, Hit The Spot and Rice You Up include not applying them to irritated skin. If the scab has not yet come off, or if the area is red and sensitive, skip that area; you can carry on with your routine on the rest of your face.
Is Rice You Up enough on its own for post-blemish marks?
Rice You Up focuses on a radiant, even-looking tone; on its own it does not make the look of dark spots disappear, and it is not an exfoliating product. For a noticeable dark or red mark, Hit The Spot or Shine On You is added at the evening step; if you use Hit The Spot, Rice You Up moves to the morning.
Which product should you choose for post-blemish marks on dry or sensitive skin?
All three products are designed for combination and normal skin; Shine On You and Hit The Spot also cover oily skin. On sensitive skin, start with a low frequency and a patch test; if you use Rice You Up on dry skin, do not skip the moisturiser step. If you are pregnant or breastfeeding, or have a skin condition, consult your doctor before use.
Sources
- Feng X et al. Azelaic Acid: Mechanisms of Action and Clinical Applications. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2024.
- Gaćina K et al. THE USE OF TRANEXAMIC ACID IN DERMATOLOGY. Acta Clin Croat. 2023.
- Guan LL et al. Sunscreens and Photoaging: A Review of Current Literature. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2021.
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA). Alpha Hydroxy Acids.
- American Academy of Dermatology (AAD). Acne: Signs and symptoms.
This content is for information only and does not replace medical advice. s'hevec products are cosmetic products and are not intended for medical treatment. It was prepared by the s'hevec Team on the basis of the s'hevec product data library and the sources listed above.
