When people start using an azelaic acid cream, their first questions are usually about frequency and order: every evening? Before moisturiser? Does it clash with niacinamide? The answers below are based on Shine On You's pack information and a laboratory study on the order of application.
In short: Apply azelaic acid cream in the evening as a thin layer to cleansed and dried skin; do not apply it around the eyes and lips. Start every other evening for the first few weeks and move to every evening as your skin settles; on sensitive skin, keep the frequency low. Moisturiser can be applied before or after the cream. Shine On You combines 7% azelaic acid with 3% niacinamide in one cream; daytime sun protection is a separate step.
How do you use azelaic acid cream?
Azelaic acid cream is used in the evening routine, after cleansing, as a thin layer.
- Cleanse and dry. Wash your face and pat it completely dry with a towel.
- Take a small amount. Apply the cream as a thin layer to your whole face or only to areas with the look of dark spots and redness.
- Smooth it in without rubbing. Keep away from the eye area and the corners of the lips. In case of contact with eyes, rinse thoroughly with water.
- Moisturise if needed. If your skin feels tight, add a moisturiser on top.
- Use sunscreen the next morning. In a routine aimed at the look of dark spots, this step is not skipped.
Can you use azelaic acid every day?
Yes, once your skin tolerates it, azelaic acid cream can be used every evening, but you start every other day. The recommended schedule for Shine On You is every other evening for the first few weeks, then every evening as your skin settles.
| Your skin | First few weeks | As your skin settles |
|---|---|---|
| Combination, normal, oily | Every other evening | Every evening |
| Sensitive | Low frequency, after a patch test on the inner forearm | Frequency increased cautiously, according to how your skin responds |
| Irritated | Not applied | Once your skin has calmed down, start again every other day |
| Burning or marked redness | Stop using it | If the reaction continues, consult a doctor |
The signal to step up is your skin's response, not the calendar: on the every-other-day schedule, if there is no tightness, flaking or marked redness the next morning, the frequency can be increased. Do not add any other new active to your routine during this period; otherwise you cannot tell which product caused a reaction.
Should azelaic acid cream go on before or after moisturiser?
Either is possible: moisturiser can be applied before or after the azelaic acid cream. In a laboratory study using human skin, applying the moisturiser lotions tested before or after a medicinal azelaic acid gel did not markedly change the absorption profile of azelaic acid through the skin.
The study examined a gel form and a laboratory model, not Shine On You. In practice, your skin's needs decide the order:
- Combination and oily skin: the cream first; if your skin feels tight, a light moisturiser on top.
- Skin that feels normal or dry: the cream first, then moisturiser.
- Sensitive skin: the order is up to you; as the study shows both orders are possible, applying moisturiser first is also an option.
Can azelaic acid and niacinamide be used together?
Yes; Shine On You contains both in the same formula, as 7% azelaic acid and 3% niacinamide. So the real question is whether you also need a separate niacinamide serum.
- If there is no other niacinamide in your routine: you do not need an extra serum; niacinamide comes in the cream.
- If you already use a niacinamide serum: you do not need to stop. Try the two products on different evenings first; once your skin is used to both, they can be used on the same evening.
- If you use Hit The Spot: Hit The Spot Dark Spot Serum also contains niacinamide as a supporting ingredient; the order of the two products on the same evening is in our Hit The Spot usage guide.
In a study of facial care products labelled for sensitive skin, niacinamide stood out as the most frequently used active; the same study also notes that human studies on these ingredients are few and methodologically limited.
Shine On You: what's in the formula?
Shine On You Azelaic Acid Cream is a 30 ml evening cream; the information on this page refers to the current formula in yellow packaging. To see the cream alongside the serum and toner options, browse our collection of products for the look of dark spots.
| Feature | Shine On You |
|---|---|
| Key actives | 7% azelaic acid + 3% niacinamide |
| Position in the ingredient list | Azelaic Acid second, straight after water (Aqua); Niacinamide seventh |
| Supporting ingredients | Allantoin, 8D hyaluronic acid, liquorice root extract (no stated percentages) |
| When to use | Evening |
| Skin type | Combination, normal, oily; for sensitive skin, see the frequency table above |
| Focus | The look of dark spots, redness and post-blemish marks |
Azelaic acid (Azelaic Acid) is a non-phenolic, saturated dicarboxylic acid with nine carbon atoms, and it is also produced by Malassezia yeast; how azelaic acid works on the skin and how it differs from the derivatives on labels is covered separately.
Liquorice root extract (Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract) is a supporting ingredient in the formula with no stated percentage; the main work on the look of skin tone is done by the two actives with stated percentages, and the ingredient itself is covered in our article on liquorice root extract.
What Shine On You does not do, and who should take care
- It does not correct pitted scars; it is aimed at the look of post-blemish marks caused by a difference in colour, not depressions in texture.
- It does not eliminate a tendency to redness; it helps reduce the look of redness.
- If redness or blemishes spread over a large part of the face, are painful or do not fade within weeks, this goes beyond the look an evening cream focuses on; show your skin to a doctor to understand the cause before continuing with the cream.
Frequently asked questions
Is tingling normal with the cream, and when should you stop?
You may feel mild tingling or warmth during the first few uses. If the tingling turns into burning, comes with itching or marked redness, or lasts a long time, wash the cream off with water and stop using it. A review by Searle and colleagues reports that azelaic acid is well tolerated; that does not mean it will cause no reaction on every skin.
Can Shine On You be applied in the morning?
No; Shine On You is formulated for evening use and has no place in the morning routine.
Can you use an AHA/BHA peel or retinol on the same evening?
It is not recommended. If you use a high-concentration AHA/BHA peel or retinol, keep them to different evenings from Shine On You; on a peel evening, skip the cream.
Which sunscreen should you use with Shine On You?
The choice depends on your skin type. Just Protected From Sun Hybrid Sunscreen is an SPF 50+ cream with hybrid filters and a fluid texture; the skin types recommended on its label are sensitive, combination, dry and normal skin. For oily skin, if you want a matte finish, choose Matte's Up? SPF 50+ Mattifying Sunscreen.
Can Shine On You be used during pregnancy?
Shine On You is a cream that stays on the skin overnight and contains 7% azelaic acid and 3% niacinamide. The studies this article is based on do not look at pregnancy and breastfeeding specifically. If you are pregnant or breastfeeding, or have a skin condition, consult your doctor before use. In that conversation, name the two actives in the formula; if you use any skin medication, mention it too.
Sources
- Feng X et al. Azelaic Acid: Mechanisms of Action and Clinical Applications. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2024.
- Searle T et al. The versatility of azelaic acid in dermatology. J Dermatolog Treat. 2022.
- Del Rosso JQ et al. Impact of order of application of moisturizers on percutaneous absorption kinetics: evaluation of sequential application of moisturizer lotions and azelaic acid gel 15% using a human skin model. Cutis. 2009.
- Ferreira MS et al. Sensitive skin: Active ingredients on the spotlight. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2022.
This content is for information only and does not replace medical advice. s'hevec products are cosmetic products and are not intended for medical treatment. It was prepared by the s'hevec Team on the basis of the s'hevec product data library and the sources listed above.
