People who see “Azelaic Acid” on a label usually want to know first what kind of acid it is and what it does on the skin. The answer also makes it easier to choose the right product for skin that shows the look of dark spots and redness at the same time.
In short: Azelaic acid is a saturated, nine-carbon dicarboxylic acid with a non-phenolic structure; it is also produced by the yeast Malassezia. Dermatology reviews describe it as regulating keratinisation, reducing melanin formation, and having antioxidant and soothing properties. In cosmetics it is used for the look of dark spots, redness and marks. At s'hevec, the only product that carries azelaic acid with a stated concentration is Shine On You: 7% azelaic acid and 3% niacinamide, for the evening.
| INCI name | Azelaic Acid |
|---|---|
| What it does | Care for the look of dark spots, redness and post-blemish marks |
| Who it is for | Combination, normal and oily skin; less frequent use on sensitive skin |
| When | Evening |
| Sun protection | Does not replace it; a separate daytime step |
| Often confused with | Potassium azeloyl diglycinate (a derivative; not a substitute for azelaic acid) |
| At s'hevec | Shine On You: 7% azelaic acid + 3% niacinamide |
What is azelaic acid and where does it come from?
Azelaic acid is a saturated, nine-carbon dicarboxylic acid that carries two carboxyl (acid) groups, and it does not have a phenolic structure. In nature it is also produced by a yeast called Malassezia; it is a molecule widely used in dermatology. On cosmetic labels it is listed as “Azelaic Acid”. In the ingredient list of Shine On You it comes second, right after water (Aqua).
What does azelaic acid do?
In cosmetic care, azelaic acid is used for three appearance goals; the properties that reviews link to these goals are in the next section:
- The look of dark spots and uneven tone: it helps reduce this look. How it compares with other dark spot ingredients is covered in our guide on which serum to choose for dark spots.
- The look of redness: it helps reduce this look. Possible causes of redness are covered in our article on facial redness.
- The look of post-blemish marks and imperfections: it helps towards a smoother-looking surface.
Azelaic acid is not a sunscreen and does not change the texture of pitted scars; at s'hevec, the three goals above are covered by Shine On You, used in the evening. You can find Shine On You alongside similar products in our collection of products for the look of dark spots.
How does azelaic acid work?
Reviews examine azelaic acid not through a single pathway but through several mechanisms. The properties described in a 2024 review and a 2022 review, and what they mean in cosmetic care, are as follows:
- Antimelanogenic (reduces melanin formation): helps reduce the look of dark spots and uneven tone.
- Soothing and antioxidant: helps calm the look of redness.
- Keratinisation-regulating: helps towards a smoother-looking surface and helps reduce the look of imperfections.
These properties are why azelaic acid also features in routines for the look of post-blemish marks. We explain the difference between a mark that is only a colour difference and a pitted scar in our article on the look of post-blemish marks.
Is azelaic acid in medicines the same as in a cosmetic cream?
No; the molecule is the same, but the purpose of the product and the conditions of use are different. A large share of the studies summarised in the reviews look at medicinal forms of azelaic acid, used under a doctor's supervision either on their own or together with other medicines. A cosmetic cream does not correspond directly to what these studies tested, and it does not replace the medicinal form; its aim is to support the skin's appearance. For this reason, the study results have not been turned into product promises in this article.
Are azelaic acid and potassium azeloyl diglycinate the same?
They are not; potassium azeloyl diglycinate is a separate ingredient derived from azelaic acid, and one does not count as a substitute for the other. The reviews above examine azelaic acid itself; the properties they summarise do not carry over to the derivative. At s'hevec the two ingredients are found in different products and play different roles:
| Shine On You | Matte's Up? | |
|---|---|---|
| Ingredient | 7% azelaic acid | Potassium azeloyl diglycinate |
| Role | Key active | Supporting ingredient; concentration not stated |
| Product type | Evening cream | SPF 50+ mattifying sunscreen |
| When | Evening | Morning, last step |
Shine On You Azelaic Acid Cream combines azelaic acid with 3% niacinamide, supported by allantoin, 8D hyaluronic acid and liquorice root extract. The current formula comes in yellow packaging. Matte's Up? SPF 50+ Mattifying Sunscreen, on the other hand, is used in the morning for a matte finish on oily and combination skin; it does not replace an evening cream with azelaic acid. For the second active in the formula, see our article what is niacinamide; for application order and frequency, see our guide how to use azelaic acid cream.
Which ingredients can be used with azelaic acid?
It can even sit in the same formula as niacinamide; exfoliating acids and retinol, however, do not share the same evening. For most pairings the rule is not a ban but timing:
| Pairing | How to use |
|---|---|
| Niacinamide | Shine On You carries both. If you also use a separate niacinamide serum, try them on different evenings first; once your skin is used to both, the same evening is fine. |
| Vitamin C derivative | Same day, different times: vitamin C derivative serum (Glow Me Like You Do) in the morning, azelaic acid cream in the evening. |
| Salicylic acid, glycolic acid, AHA/BHA peel | Different evenings; skip the azelaic acid cream on the evening you use a peel. |
| Retinol | Different evenings. Retinol's place in the routine is covered in our retinol guide. |
Our routine for blemish-prone skin explains how to set up a weekly schedule with a salicylic acid toner, and our guide to using active ingredients together covers the other pairings.
Does azelaic acid have side effects, and who should be careful?
It can: the 2022 review summarises azelaic acid as a well-tolerated option across different skin conditions; this does not mean that no reactions will occur, and the assessment is largely based on medicinal forms. With a cosmetic cream, a mild tingling or warm sensation may be felt during the first applications; if the sensation turns into burning or lasts a long time, stop using the product.
- Around the eyes and lips, irritated skin: azelaic acid cream is not applied to these areas.
- Persistent redness: widespread, painful or lasting redness and imperfections are not something to handle with a cosmetic cream; see your doctor.
- Pregnancy, breastfeeding or a skin condition: the summaries of the two reviews this article is based on contain no assessment for these situations; consult your doctor before use.
Frequently asked questions
Is azelaic acid an AHA or a BHA?
Neither. AHAs and BHAs belong to the hydroxy acid class; azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid from a different class, carrying two carboxyl groups. Shine On You is used not as a rinse-off peel but as a cream left on the skin in the evening.
If I see Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate on the label, does the product contain azelaic acid?
That name on its own does not mean azelaic acid; it is the derivative's own INCI name. If a product contains azelaic acid itself, the ingredient list also states “Azelaic Acid” separately. The two names can also appear together in the same list.
Can azelaic acid be used during pregnancy?
The sources this article is based on contain no cosmetic assessment specific to pregnancy and breastfeeding. If you are pregnant or breastfeeding, or have a skin condition, consult your doctor before use.
Should azelaic acid be used in the morning or the evening?
At s'hevec, in the evening: Shine On You is formulated for evening use and has no place in the morning routine. The last step of the morning is sunscreen; it is not skipped in a routine for the look of dark spots.
Is azelaic acid natural?
The molecule also occurs in nature; however, a molecule that occurs in nature and a raw material obtained from a natural source are not the same thing: how the raw material in the cream was obtained is not reflected on the label, and the INCI name is Azelaic Acid in every case.
Does azelaic acid change your skin colour?
The aim of a cosmetic azelaic acid cream is not to change the skin's own colour but to help reduce the look of dark spots and uneven tone. The property of reducing melanin formation described in the reviews is not a product promise; in a cosmetic cream, it translates into care aimed at the look of dark spots, not into changing the skin's own tone.
Sources
- Feng X et al. Azelaic Acid: Mechanisms of Action and Clinical Applications. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2024.
- Searle T et al. The versatility of azelaic acid in dermatology. J Dermatolog Treat. 2022.
This content is for information only and does not replace medical advice. s'hevec products are cosmetic products and are not intended for medical treatment. It was prepared by the s'hevec Team on the basis of the s'hevec product data library and the sources listed above.
