A tired look under the eyes is often described in a single word, but two separate things may be involved: puffiness, which is an increase in volume, and dark circles, which are a difference in colour. Which one you see determines what you can expect from skincare and when you should see a doctor.
In short: Puffiness is an increase in volume; the temporary type is most noticeable in the morning and eases during the day, while the structural type settles in over the years. Dark circles are a difference in colour that comes from shadowing, visible blood vessels, pigment or inherited structure. The rule of thumb: a caffeine eye serum for morning puffiness, sun protection every morning for pigment and realistic expectations for shadows. If puffiness is on one side only, appears suddenly or does not go away, see a doctor instead of trying a product.
What is the difference between under-eye puffiness and dark circles?
Puffiness shows up as swelling under the eye, while dark circles show up as darker colour. Both can be present in the same person; the shadow cast by puffiness can make dark circles look more pronounced than they are.
| Feature | Under-eye puffiness | The look of dark circles |
|---|---|---|
| What do you see? | Swelling, a baggy look | A difference in colour with a purple, brown or grey tone |
| When is it most noticeable? | Temporary type: in the morning, easing during the day; structural type: settled in over the years | Similar all day; may vary with the angle of the light |
| What may help in skincare? | A caffeine eye serum, applied in the morning | Sun protection every morning, including the eye area |
| What does not help? | A serum does not correct structural bags or a drooping eyelid | A cream does not change the shadow of a hollow or the look of blood vessels |
The first clue in the mirror is timing: swelling that is pronounced in the morning and eases during the day is usually temporary puffiness. Darkness that lessens when you turn your face towards the light may also suggest shadowing; this is only a preliminary observation.
What causes under-eye bags?
The phrase “under-eye bags” is used for two different looks, and in skincare what separates them is timing: puffiness that is most noticeable in the morning and eases during the day, and bags that settle in over the years.
- Puffiness that shows in the morning: you start the day with a puffy under-eye area, and the look eases during the day. This is the type a skincare product can work on.
- Bags that settle in over the years: the look does not change from morning to evening and becomes established over time. A drooping eyelid also belongs to this group; an eye serum makes neither of them go away.
What is possible for the second type is something to discuss with a doctor, not something a skincare product can answer. Puffiness that appears in one eye only, suddenly or with pain fits neither type; see the doctor section below.
What causes dark circles under the eyes?
Dark circles have no single cause; an evidence-based review groups under-eye darkness into five categories by origin:
- Shadowing: puffiness or a hollow under the eye blocks the light and casts a shadow.
- Vascular look: blood vessels under thin skin show through as a purplish colour.
- Pigment darkening with no obvious cause.
- Darkening left after irritation: darker colour that remains after the skin has been irritated.
- Structural (inherited) causes: features of skin tone and facial structure that a person is born with.
Another review describes sun protection as the cornerstone of the approach to under-eye darkening. This is why, for pigment-related darkness, the main step in the routine is sun protection rather than a serum.
Which one do you have, and what goes in your routine?
Observation decides the step in your routine: the same product does not work equally on every kind of under-eye darkness. Match what you see to one of the rows below.
| What you observe | Likely type | Step in your routine |
|---|---|---|
| Puffy in the morning, easing towards midday | Temporary puffiness | 1–2 drops of Power De-Puff Girls in the morning |
| Brown tone that does not change with the light | Pigment-related | Sunscreen every morning, right up to the under-eye area |
| Darkness that lessens when you face the light | Shadowing | A morning eye serum if puffiness deepens the shadow; a cream does not fill a hollow |
| Purplish tone showing through thin skin | Vascular look | Gentle care and sun protection; a cosmetic product does not change blood vessels |
| On one side only, or developed suddenly | Needs to be assessed | See a doctor instead of trying a product |
The product in the first row of the table is Power De-Puff Girls Eye Serum: it contains caffeine and baobab extract and helps reduce the look of puffiness. It can be used morning and evening; if the look of puffiness is your focus, do not skip the morning application. The order of application, the amount and how long it can be used after opening are covered in how to use a caffeine eye serum, and how caffeine works on the skin in what caffeine does in skincare. The eye serum sits alongside the barrier serum and the peptide cream in our collection of products for the look of fine lines.
A 2025 review of topical ingredients for darkness around the eyes concludes that these ingredients, including caffeine and vitamins, may be useful. The same review recommends that future studies distinguish the cause of dark circles and evaluate cause-specific approaches; this is also why the table above starts from observation.
Should you apply sunscreen under the eyes?
Yes; the under-eye area is part of the facial skin exposed to the sun, and sunscreen goes on this area too. The US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) recommends applying sunscreen to the whole face without getting it into the eyes or mouth, and backing it up outdoors with measures such as sunglasses and a wide-brimmed hat. When applying, spread the product so that it does not get into the eyes, and keep it away from the eye rim.
Just Protected From Sun SPF 50+ Hybrid Sunscreen is a cream with a fluid texture, applied over moisturiser as the last step of the morning routine. The warning on the product page says the cream should not come into contact with the eyes; if a distinct burning sensation, redness or itching starts after applying it close to the eye rim, rinse the cream off with plenty of water and do not continue with the product. We cover the amount needed for the face separately in how much sunscreen to apply.
When should you see a doctor?
If under-eye puffiness matches any of the following, see your doctor instead of trying an eye-area product:
- It has appeared in one eye only.
- It developed suddenly.
- It comes with pain or itching.
- It has not eased after several days.
On the dark circle side too, a review of under-eye darkening recommends a detailed health history and examination before any aesthetic approach.
Frequently asked questions
Do young people get dark circles too?
Yes. A review notes that under-eye darkening can occur in both young and older people and that, if left unaddressed, it usually progresses over time; for this reason it recommends addressing it early. At a young age, too, the first step is sun protection.
Are dark circles caused by lack of sleep?
Irregular sleep is one of the factors associated with dark circles, but it is not the only cause. Shadowing, visible blood vessels, pigment and inherited structure also play a role, which is why dark circles can also appear in people who sleep regularly.
Are dark circles caused by a vitamin deficiency?
They cannot be put down to that alone. A review lists nutritional deficiencies among the factors associated with dark circles, together with allergies, sleep disturbances and certain systemic conditions; which of these plays a role varies from person to person. Have your doctor assess any possible deficiency, and do not start taking supplements on your own.
Are dark circles more common in darker skin tones?
Yes. Dark circles occur in every skin type, but a review notes that they are more common in darker skin tones. Because they can make a person look more tired or sad than they are, they are a common aesthetic concern.
Can a peel help with dark circles?
Acid products used at home are not applied around the eyes; Red Of Love AHA/BHA Peel is not applied around the eyes either. For procedures carried out in a clinic, such as a chemical peel, the review stresses that safety comes first so as not to worsen pigmentation; the decision is made with a doctor.
Sources
- Pissaridou MK et al. Periorbital Discolouration Diagnosis and Treatment: Evidence-Based Review. J Cosmet Laser Ther. 2020.
- Roberts WE. Periorbital hyperpigmentation: review of etiology, medical evaluation, and aesthetic treatment. J Drugs Dermatol. 2014.
- Woolhiser E et al. Topical Therapies for Periorbital Dyschromia: A 30-Year Review of the Literature. Dermatol Surg. 2025.
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA). Sunscreen: How to Help Protect Your Skin from the Sun.
This content is for information only and does not replace medical advice. s'hevec products are cosmetic products and are not intended for medical treatment. It was prepared by the s'hevec Team on the basis of the s'hevec product data library and the sources listed above.
