Alpha arbutin appears in the ingredient lists of serums for the look of dark spots and of some tinted sunscreens as “Alpha Arbutin” or “Alpha-Arbutin”. The “alpha” in its name sets it apart from beta arbutin; its chemical kinship with hydroquinone is a question that people reading labels often ask about.
In short: Alpha arbutin is the glycoside form of hydroquinone, bound to glucose. One review examines arbutin through its melanin-inhibiting and antioxidant properties; alpha arbutin is used in formulas for the look of dark spots and uneven tone. Tranexamic acid, by contrast, is a separate molecule derived from the amino acid lysine. Hit The Spot combines the two in one serum as 2% alpha arbutin and 2% tranexamic acid; Crush On Pink is an SPF 50+ sunscreen containing alpha arbutin.
| INCI name | Alpha Arbutin (Alpha-Arbutin in the Hit The Spot list) |
|---|---|
| What it does | Helps reduce the look of dark spots and uneven tone |
| Who it is for | Anyone looking for care aimed at the look of dark spots and uneven tone; Hit The Spot for combination, normal and oily skin, Crush On Pink for combination and normal skin |
| When | Hit The Spot mainly in the evening; Crush On Pink in the morning, at the sun protection step |
| Sun protection | Does not replace sunscreen; daytime protection is needed in dark spot care |
| Used together with | Tranexamic acid and niacinamide |
| At s'hevec | Hit The Spot: 2% alpha arbutin + 2% tranexamic acid; Crush On Pink: alpha arbutin and niacinamide (percentage not stated) |
What is alpha arbutin?
Alpha arbutin is the glucose-bound (glycoside) form of hydroquinone. Arbutin in general is a compound made up of hydroquinone and D-glucose, and its effect on skin tone has been researched for a long time. In the glycoside structure, hydroquinone is not free but bound to glucose; alpha arbutin is not hydroquinone itself but a derivative of it.
Are alpha arbutin and arbutin the same?
Not exactly: arbutin has two forms, alpha and beta, and alpha arbutin is one of them. Alpha and beta name two different orientations of the glycosidic bond through which glucose is attached to hydroquinone; both forms are classed as hydroquinone derivatives and used as ingredients aimed at the look of uneven tone.
At the enzyme level, the two forms do not behave in the same way. A 2017 kinetic study found that tyrosinase, the enzyme involved in pigment formation, can process both forms as substrates but shows a higher affinity for the beta form. According to the authors, these differences should be taken into account when explaining the possible adverse effects of the two forms.
In the ingredient list, the form is distinguished by name: the alpha form is written as Alpha Arbutin and the beta form as Arbutin.
What does alpha arbutin do?
Alpha arbutin is used to help reduce the look of dark spots and uneven tone. A 2021 review reports that the tone-evening effect of arbutin, on its own and combined with other actives, has also been assessed in humans. The same review notes that combinations of arbutin with other substances that inhibit melanin synthesis have also been researched. The presence of alpha arbutin in the same formula as tranexamic acid in Hit The Spot is one example of this combined approach.
How does alpha arbutin work?
Alpha arbutin does not peel the skin's surface; it is not an exfoliant. A 2021 review reports that arbutin and its derivatives are studied for their melanin-inhibiting (antimelanogenic) effects; melanin is the pigment that gives skin its colour. In cosmetics, alpha arbutin is used to help reduce the look of dark spots. The review also notes that studies on arbutin's antioxidant properties are increasing, and that these properties have been suggested to contribute to its tone-evening effect.
An honest note: according to the same review, arbutin's mechanism of action, efficacy and safety have been debated and have been the subject of verification studies.
What is the difference between alpha arbutin and tranexamic acid?
Both are used in formulas for the look of dark spots; the difference lies in their origin and in the properties they are studied for.
| Feature | Alpha arbutin | Tranexamic acid |
|---|---|---|
| Origin | A glycoside of hydroquinone bound to glucose | A synthetic derivative of the amino acid lysine |
| Area of use | Cosmetic ingredient | A molecule used in medicine and dermatology |
| Properties studied in the sources | Inhibition of melanin synthesis, interaction with the tyrosinase enzyme, antioxidant properties | Inhibition of melanin formation; effects on inflammation and on blood-vessel formation (anti-angiogenic) |
| At s'hevec | Hit The Spot, Crush On Pink | Hit The Spot; a supporting ingredient in Rice Rice Baby and Rice You Up |
The definition of tranexamic acid and its areas of use are covered in detail in our article what is tranexamic acid.
What does EU cosmetics regulation say about alpha arbutin?
Following a safety assessment, the EU set upper limits for alpha arbutin by product type in Regulation (EU) 2024/996: a maximum of 2% alpha arbutin in face creams and a maximum of 0.5% alpha arbutin in body lotions. The hydroquinone content must not exceed unavoidable trace levels. The rules apply to products newly placed on the market from 1 February 2025 and to all products on sale from 1 November 2025; the regulation also contains separate limits for beta arbutin.
This section is general regulatory information; the limits are defined by product type. Darker-looking skin on body areas such as the underarms, meanwhile, may be linked to irritation caused by hair removal and friction; its causes and care are covered separately under the look of darker underarms and how to care for it.
Which s'hevec products contain alpha arbutin?
Alpha arbutin is found in two s'hevec facial care products; the serum is the only one with a stated percentage. Hit The Spot Dark Spot Serum combines 2% alpha arbutin with 2% tranexamic acid and niacinamide. The formula brings the three active ingredients together in a single serum aimed at the look of dark spots; it is the design of the formula, not a measure of efficacy. It is used mainly in the evening, for combination, normal and oily skin. Other s'hevec products can be found in our collection of products for the look of dark spots.
Crush On Pink SPF 50+ Pink-Tinted Sunscreen contains alpha arbutin and niacinamide; no percentage is stated for the sunscreen. It is used at the morning sun protection step for combination and normal skin and also works as a make-up base. How to use the serum and where it fits in a routine are explained in the guide how to use a tranexamic acid and alpha arbutin serum.
What alpha arbutin does not do
- It does not peel away surface cells; it does not do the job of an exfoliant such as an AHA or BHA.
- It does not replace sunscreen.
- It does not correct pitted or raised scars; these are changes in texture, not colour.
- A mole or lesion that is new, changes shape or colour, itches or bleeds is not a matter for cosmetic care; it needs to be assessed by a doctor. We look at why spots form in our article why dark spots form.
Does alpha arbutin have side effects?
Skin reactions can occur, though rarely. A review of arbutin notes that skin reactions linked to arbutin use have rarely been reported, and recommends care with products containing arbutin.
Who should not use alpha arbutin, and who should take care?
People with sensitive or irritated skin should start carefully.
- Sensitive skin: do a patch test on the inner forearm first; start Hit The Spot at a low frequency.
- Irritated skin: do not apply the product to irritated skin or around the eyes; if redness or irritation occurs, use it less often or stop using it.
- Pregnancy, breastfeeding and skin conditions: alpha arbutin is a hydroquinone derivative. If you are pregnant or breastfeeding, or have a skin condition, consult your doctor before use.
Frequently asked questions
Does arbutin have derivatives other than alpha and beta?
Yes. A review of arbutin reports that various analogues and derivatives of arbutin have been developed to study their melanin-inhibiting effects.
Does alpha arbutin change your skin colour?
No. Alpha arbutin is not used to change the skin's own tone but to help reduce the look of dark spots and uneven tone.
Should you choose an alpha arbutin serum or a sunscreen with alpha arbutin?
One does not replace the other. The morning step takes care of sun protection and the evening step of care aimed at the look of dark spots; that is why Crush On Pink in the morning and Hit The Spot in the evening can be used together.
Is the percentage all that matters with alpha arbutin?
No. A review of arbutin reports that special formulations have been developed to improve its stability, its penetration into the skin and its release; how the ingredient behaves also depends on the formula.
Sources
- Boo YC. Arbutin as a Skin Depigmenting Agent with Antimelanogenic and Antioxidant Properties. Antioxidants (Basel). 2021.
- Garcia-Jimenez A et al. Action of tyrosinase on alpha and beta-arbutin: A kinetic study. PLoS One. 2017.
- Gaćina K et al. The use of tranexamic acid in dermatology. Acta Clin Croat. 2023.
- European Commission. Commission Regulation (EU) 2024/996 amending the annexes to the Cosmetics Regulation (limits for alpha-arbutin and arbutin).
This content is for information only and does not replace medical advice. s'hevec products are cosmetic products and are not intended for medical treatment. It was prepared by the s'hevec Team on the basis of the s'hevec product data library and the sources listed above.
