Putting cream on a shiny face can seem unnecessary at first glance, which is why the moisturiser step is often skipped on oily skin. Yet the oil on the surface and the water in the skin's upper layer are two separate matters, and choosing a moisturiser becomes clearer once you make this distinction.
In short: Yes, oily skin should use a moisturiser too. Shine comes from sebum, whereas the upper layer's ability to hold water depends largely on the lipids between cells and on the natural moisturising factor. Look at four criteria when choosing: a light texture, a humectant ingredient, barrier support and an active aimed at sebum balance. Any Time Of Day is water-based and silicone-free; it contains 5% niacinamide and 2% 8D hyaluronic acid and is the final hydration step after serum, morning and evening.
Should oily skin use a moisturiser?
Yes; shine does not mean the skin is holding enough water. An oily look results from the oil glands producing excess sebum and varies with diet, age, sex, ethnicity and a hot, humid climate. Water retention in the skin's outermost layer (the stratum corneum), on the other hand, depends largely on three factors: the lipid layers between cells slow the passage of water, the stacked layers of cells lengthen the path water has to take, and the natural moisturising factor (NMF) inside the cells holds on to water.
These processes can be disrupted by environmental stress, and the surface can take on a dry, flaky look; a shiny appearance alone does not show that this balance is intact. Various studies have reported that moisturisers reduce water loss from the skin. On oily skin, the question is not “do I need a moisturiser?” but “which texture, and which ingredients?”
What should you look for in a moisturiser for oily skin?
A suitable moisturiser for oily skin is one that provides hydration with humectant ingredients rather than by adding oil to the surface, supports the barrier and does not feel heavy under sunscreen. Moisturisers work with humectant, emollient and occlusive components; for the difference between the three and between a serum and a cream, see serum or cream. On oily skin, formulas that rely mainly on humectants and keep the occlusive, film-forming layer light stand out. We have brought together what to look for when choosing a moisturiser for every skin type in our guide how to choose a moisturiser.
| Criterion | Why it matters on oily skin | In Any Time Of Day |
|---|---|---|
| Light texture | Sunscreen goes on top in the morning; together, the two layers should not feel heavy | A water-based, silicone-free white cream |
| Humectant ingredient | Draws water from deeper layers to the upper skin without adding oil to the surface | 2% 8D hyaluronic acid |
| Barrier support | The lipid layer between cells slows water loss | Ceramide complex (Ceramide NP appears in the INCI list) and panthenol |
| Active aimed at sebum balance | A concentration-dependent sebum-balancing effect has been described for niacinamide | 5% niacinamide; second in the INCI list, right after water |
| One cream, two times of day | No need to choose separate creams for morning and evening | The final hydration step morning and evening |
8D hyaluronic acid does not appear under a single name on the pack; in the INCI list it appears under separate names, for example Sodium Hyaluronate and Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid. A review on niacinamide describes it as a well-tolerated ingredient widely used in cosmetics; in Any Time Of Day, it adds support for a clearer-looking complexion to the hydration step.
How to use Any Time Of Day
Any Time Of Day Water-Based Moisturising Cream is used morning and evening after serum, as the final hydration step of the routine; in the morning, sunscreen goes on top. The morning order for oily skin:
- Cleanse and pat your face dry.
- Hi Girls Bye Pores: after toner, if you use one, and before moisturiser. Hi Girls Bye Pores Niacinamide Pore Serum contains 10% niacinamide and is used once or twice a day.
- Any Time Of Day: take a hazelnut-sized amount of cream from the jar with a clean, dry finger or a spatula and spread it over your face and neck.
- Matte's Up?: once the cream has absorbed, complete the matte-finish protection step with Matte's Up? SPF 50+ Mattifying Sunscreen.
In this order, niacinamide appears in two layers: 10% in the serum and 5% in the cream. If your skin is sensitive, start the serum once a day; in the evening, the same cream is used as the last step after serum. All the steps from cleansing to acid toner are set out in order in our oily skin care routine. All the products identified as suitable for this skin type can be found among our care products for oily skin.
Do you need a moisturiser in summer too?
Yes; what changes in summer is not whether you need a moisturiser but how much you use. Oiliness varies with climate; the need for hydration does not go away. On hot days, less than a hazelnut-sized amount may be enough. What to look for when choosing protection with a matte finish is detailed in our guide mattifying sunscreen for oily skin.
What Any Time Of Day does not do, and who should take care
Any Time Of Day is a hydration step; it does not shut down sebum production or stop shine during the day.
- Shine: it does not eliminate oiliness; the matte finish comes from the last step of the morning order.
- Pores: it does not change the structural size of pores.
- Sun: it is not a sunscreen.
- Persistent dryness: if flaking or itching continues, see your doctor rather than waiting it out with a moisturiser.
- Sensitive or irritated skin: before first use, do a patch test on the inner forearm; do not apply to red or irritated areas, and avoid contact with the eyes.
- Pregnancy, breastfeeding or a diagnosed skin condition: If you are pregnant or breastfeeding, or have a skin condition, consult your doctor before use.
Frequently asked questions
How do you use a moisturiser on combination skin?
Any Time Of Day is intended for all skin types; on combination skin, a normal amount on the cheeks and a thinner layer on the T-zone may be enough. One cream is used on both areas; no separate product is needed. For morning and evening steps that vary by area, see our combination skin care routine.
Can a moisturiser be used under make-up?
Yes. In the morning, the order is moisturiser, sunscreen and make-up. Wait for each layer to absorb before moving on to the next.
Can dry or sensitive skin use it too?
The skin types recommended on its label are sensitive, combination, dry, normal and oily. Dry and normal skin can use it as an everyday basic moisturiser; on sensitive skin, begin by trying it on a small area, and the patch test note above applies.
How should cream in a jar be stored?
Close the lid of the jar straight after use and keep the cream in a cool, dry place. The packaging is a 50 ml frosted glass jar.
Sources
- Sakuma TH et al. Oily skin: an overview. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2012.
- Rawlings AV et al. Moisturization and skin barrier function. Dermatol Ther. 2004.
- Rajkumar J et al. The Skin Barrier and Moisturization: Function, Disruption, and Mechanisms of Repair. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2023.
- Wohlrab J et al. Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatology. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2014.
This content is for information only and does not replace medical advice. s'hevec products are cosmetic products and are not intended for medical treatment. It was prepared by the s'hevec Team on the basis of the s'hevec product data library and the sources listed above.
