People who see “Saccharide Isomerate” in an ingredient list usually ask the same question: what does this ingredient do, and how does it differ from hyaluronic acid? Both are humectants, but they are different molecules, and the scientific data on Pentavitin are much more limited.
In short: Saccharide isomerate (trade name Pentavitin) is a moisture-binding ingredient (humectant) derived from sugars. The 2025 report of the expert panel that assesses the safety of cosmetic ingredients describes it as a skin-conditioning agent and humectant and finds it safe in cosmetics under the current conditions of use and concentration. In the s'hevec serum Hydra Back Baby, it is the second humectant alongside hyaluronic acid; the serum is applied morning and evening, before moisturiser.
| INCI name | Saccharide Isomerate (trade name Pentavitin) |
|---|---|
| What it does | Humectant: draws water into the upper layers of the skin |
| Combining with other ingredients | In the same formula as hyaluronic acid; moisturiser on top |
| At s'hevec | Hydra Back Baby (concentrations in the comparison table) |
What is saccharide isomerate (Pentavitin)?
Saccharide isomerate is an ingredient derived from sugars and used in cosmetics as a humectant; Pentavitin is its trade name. The 2025 report of the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel examines it together with six sugars and sugar derivatives and states that all of them function as skin-conditioning agents and humectants in cosmetics.
According to a review on the skin barrier, in moisturisers occlusives cover the outermost layer of the skin, humectants draw water from the lower layers to the upper layers, and emollients blend into the outermost layer. Pentavitin belongs to the second group, which is why a serum containing it is followed by a moisturiser. You can choose one from our moisturisers to go over the serum.
What does Pentavitin do, and how strong is the evidence?
Pentavitin is used to draw moisture into the skin; the direct data on its effect on the skin in our sources are limited to a single small study carried out to validate a camera that measures micro-relief on the skin surface. After a single application, creams containing saccharide isomerate, urea or another humectant blend all lowered one roughness measurement; the decrease in a second roughness measurement was seen only with saccharide isomerate and the other humectant blend.
The limits are clear: the group of participants was small, and what was measured was surface relief, not hydration level.
What is the difference between Pentavitin and hyaluronic acid?
Both are humectants; the difference lies in origin, structure and the amount of evidence. According to a review, the molecular weight of hyaluronic acid changes how it penetrates the skin and its biological effect; our sources make no such distinction for Pentavitin.
| Feature | Pentavitin | Hyaluronic acid |
|---|---|---|
| Origin and structure | A cosmetic ingredient derived from sugars | A glycosaminoglycan built from sugar units and also found in human tissues |
| Data in our sources | A safety report, one small measurement study | A broader body of literature, including reviews |
| In Hydra Back Baby | 1.2% Pentavitin | 2% 8D hyaluronic acid |
In Hydra Back Baby the work is divided as follows: the main humectant is 8D hyaluronic acid, and Pentavitin is added as a second humectant with a different structure. Our sources contain no measurement showing that together they provide more hydration. We explain which forms make up 8D in the hyaluronic acid guide.
Can Pentavitin be used instead of hyaluronic acid?
They share the same task, but our sources contain no comparative data showing that one can replace the other. Even in Hydra Back Baby 8D Hyaluronic Acid Hydrating Serum, the s'hevec product that contains Pentavitin as a key active, it is used alongside hyaluronic acid rather than instead of it. Saccharide Isomerate also appears in the ingredient list of the Rice Vibes Only mask.
Does Pentavitin have side effects, and who should take care?
The CIR panel finds saccharide isomerate safe in cosmetics under the current conditions of use and concentration; our sources contain no reported reactions specific to this ingredient. This does not mean that no one will react:
- Sensitive skin: Before first use, do a patch test on the inner forearm.
- Irritated skin: do not apply to broken or irritated skin; if sensitivity develops, take a break.
- Persistent dryness: dryness that does not go away, itches or cracks even though you use a serum and moisturiser regularly may not be something a humectant can resolve; see your doctor to find out the cause.
- Pregnancy and breastfeeding: If you are pregnant or breastfeeding, or have a skin condition, consult your doctor before use. In that conversation, also mention the other products you use.
Frequently asked questions
How long does Pentavitin keep skin hydrated?
There is no stated duration for this. The study in our sources measures surface relief after a single application; it does not support a promise of hydration lasting a given number of hours.
Is the measurement study on Pentavitin independent?
No. According to the article's declaration of interests, the authors are employees of the company that developed the camera used and of a raw-material company that holds the patent for one of the humectants compared. This does not invalidate the result, but our sources contain no data showing that the finding has been replicated by an independent team. The safety assessment, on the other hand, comes from the CIR Expert Panel, and no conflict of interest is reported in it.
Can Pentavitin be used on oily skin?
Yes; the label of Hydra Back Baby recommends it for all skin types. On oily and combination skin, choose a lightweight, water-based moisturiser to go on top, for example Any Time Of Day Water-Based Moisturising Cream.
Can Pentavitin be used with an acid toner or a vitamin C serum?
Yes. Hydra Back Baby comes after these steps and before moisturiser. The order is explained in our guide how to use a hyaluronic acid serum.
Sources
- Johnson W Jr et al. Safety Assessment of Anhydrogalactose, Anhydroglucitol, Anhydroxylitol, Arabinose, Psicose, Saccharide Hydrolysate, and Saccharide Isomerate as Used in Cosmetics. Int J Toxicol. 2025.
- Gougeon S et al. Evaluation of a new connected portable camera for the analysis of skin microrelief and the assessment of the effect of skin moisturisers. Skin Res Technol. 2023.
- Rajkumar J et al. The Skin Barrier and Moisturization: Function, Disruption, and Mechanisms of Repair. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2023.
- Juncan AM et al. Advantages of Hyaluronic Acid and Its Combination with Other Bioactive Ingredients in Cosmeceuticals. Molecules. 2021.
This content is for information only and does not replace medical advice. s'hevec products are cosmetic products and are not intended for medical treatment. It was prepared by the s'hevec Team on the basis of the s'hevec product data library and the sources listed above.
