Allantoin is a name you often see in the ingredient lists of products marketed for “sensitive skin”. In most formulas it is a supporting ingredient rather than the key active; knowing what it is also makes it clearer what to look for when choosing a product.
In short: Allantoin (INCI: Allantoin) is a supporting ingredient used in soothing formulas. In a study of facial care products marketed for sensitive skin, it was the third most frequently used ingredient after niacinamide and oat extract, but it was not among the ingredients that had been studied in volunteers with sensitive skin. At s'hevec, it is present as a supporting ingredient, with no stated percentage, in 17 of the 23 products whose ingredient lists are published; it is the key active in none of them.
| INCI name | Allantoin (spelt “alantoin” in Turkish) |
|---|---|
| What it does | Part of soothing care; supports the comfort of the formula on the skin |
| Who it is for | Common in sensitive-skin products; suitability is determined by the product's key active |
| At s'hevec | Supporting ingredient; no percentage stated |
What is allantoin, and what does it do?
Allantoin is a small molecule used to support the comfort of a formula on the skin; it is usually included alongside the actives that do the main job, as part of soothing care.
The fact that allantoin is common in sensitive-skin products does not mean its effect has been strongly demonstrated in human studies. The study that examined facial care products sold in pharmacies under a “sensitive skin” label reports that human studies on the actives used in these products are few and of limited methodological quality. Among the most frequently used ingredients, the only ones that had been studied in volunteers with sensitive skin were niacinamide, panthenol and one other ingredient; allantoin is not in this group.
- What you can expect: support for the comfort of the formula on the skin, as part of soothing care.
- What you cannot expect: exfoliation, an effect aimed at the look of dark spots, sun protection or sufficient hydration on its own.
What is the difference between allantoin and panthenol?
Both are supporting ingredients often seen in soothing formulas; the difference lies in what they are and in the data in the sources.
| Allantoin | Panthenol | |
|---|---|---|
| What it is | A separate, small molecule | Provitamin B5 (dexpanthenol) |
| Data in the sources | Common in sensitive-skin products; not studied in volunteers with sensitive skin | Studied in volunteers with sensitive skin; studies on hydration and barrier support have been reviewed |
| Role at s'hevec | Supporting ingredient, no percentage stated | Supporting ingredient, no percentage stated |
Panthenol is covered in detail in our article what is panthenol.
Can allantoin be used on sensitive skin?
It can, but seeing allantoin on a label does not on its own make a product suitable for sensitive skin; what decides it is the key active and its concentration. Shine On You contains allantoin, but because its key actives are 7% azelaic acid and 3% niacinamide, it is recommended at a low frequency on sensitive skin. We explain how to build a routine for sensitive skin in our article sensitive skin care. Other products whose labels include sensitive skin among the recommended skin types can be found in our collection of care products for sensitive skin.
Which s'hevec products contain allantoin?
Allantoin appears in 17 of the 23 s'hevec products whose ingredient list (INCI) is published on the product page; it is not in Smooth Me All Night, Firm Baby Firm, Roll-On The Floor or three of the sunscreens. In none of them does it do the main job. Among them:
| Product | Key actives | Use |
|---|---|---|
| Hi Girls Bye Pores | 10% niacinamide + 0.5% zinc PCA | 1–2 times a day |
| Glow Me Like You Do | 7% Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid) | Morning |
| Shine On You | 7% azelaic acid + 3% niacinamide | Evening |
| Love In Blue This Time | 2% ceramide complex + 2% Ethyl Ascorbic Acid | Mainly evening |
The pages for Glow Me Like You Do Vitamin C Serum, Shine On You Azelaic Acid Cream and Love In Blue This Time Ceramide and Copper Peptide Serum give the usage and warning information for each product.
Does allantoin have side effects, and who should take care?
Our sources contain no side effect or tolerance information specific to allantoin, so we do not attach a safety claim to it. Allantoin is always present together with other ingredients; trying a new product on a small area first is the way to see how you react to the formula as a whole. We have gathered the testing steps recommended by the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) in our guide trying a new product on a small area. If redness or itching starts after a product you chose because it is soothing, attribute it to the whole formula rather than to allantoin; wash the product off and stop using it. Because it can be hard to tell which ingredient caused the reaction, the AAD recommends consulting a dermatologist in this situation.
When deciding whether to use a product containing allantoin during pregnancy or breastfeeding, what matters is less the allantoin than the key active in the formula (for example azelaic acid or a vitamin C derivative). If you are pregnant or breastfeeding, or have a skin condition, consult your doctor before use.
Frequently asked questions
Is allantoin enough on its own to soothe the skin?
No. Allantoin is one of the supporting ingredients within a product; the result is determined by the product's key actives and the basic steps of your routine.
Are allantoin and bisabolol the same thing?
No, they are two separate ingredients. At s'hevec, both appear in the ingredient list of Rice Vibes Only. We cover bisabolol separately in our article what is bisabolol.
Why is the allantoin percentage not stated?
At s'hevec, percentages are stated only for the one or two key actives that do the product's main job; supporting ingredients such as allantoin are not given a percentage.
Can a product containing allantoin be used around the eyes?
That is decided by the product's directions for use, not by allantoin. Shine On You is kept away from the eye and lip area; Power De-Puff Girls, which is designed for the eye area, also has allantoin in its ingredient list.
Sources
- Ferreira MS et al. Sensitive skin: Active ingredients on the spotlight. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2022.
- Proksch E et al. Topical use of dexpanthenol: a 70th anniversary article. J Dermatolog Treat. 2017.
- American Academy of Dermatology (AAD). How to test skin care products.
This content is for information only and does not replace medical advice. s'hevec products are cosmetic products and are not intended for medical treatment. It was prepared by the s'hevec Team on the basis of the s'hevec product data library and the sources listed above.
