Centella asiatica is a plant extract that you may also come across on labels as “CICA” or “gotu kola”. It often appears in soothing formulas, but the presence of centella on a label does not on its own determine what a product will do.
In short: Centella asiatica (gotu kola) is a plant whose main components are asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. In cosmetics it is used as a supporting ingredient in soothing formulas that aim to support skin comfort; controlled data on its cosmetic effect are limited. At s'hevec it appears in the INCI lists of seven products with no stated concentration (as “Centella Asiatica Extract” in six of them and as “Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract” in Mic Drop); in none of them is it a key active with a stated concentration.
| INCI name | Centella Asiatica Extract (CICA, gotu kola) |
|---|---|
| What it does | Supporting ingredient in the formula; the key active determines which product to choose |
| Frequency and sun | According to the product's own rules; in an acid product, the acid's rules apply |
| At s'hevec | In seven products, with no stated concentration; in all seven it sits in the same formula as niacinamide |
What is Centella asiatica?
Centella asiatica is a plant that has been used for centuries in traditional practice and in science-based medicine. According to a review on cosmetology, its active compounds are pentacyclic triterpenes.
What does CICA do?
In a toner or serum, centella is not an active that delivers a result on its own but a supporting component of the formula; what you can expect from it depends on where the evidence comes from.
- What has been studied in a medical context: most of the findings in the review relate to medical use, not cosmetic use.
- What is limited: according to a study of products for sensitive skin, studies in people on the ingredients in these products are few and methodologically weak. Medical findings cannot be carried over to the centella in a toner.
Which s'hevec products contain centella?
Centella appears in the INCI lists of seven s'hevec products with no stated concentration (in Mic Drop as Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract): it is named in the product description of Magic Foam Party and is a supporting ingredient in the other six. The key actives with stated concentrations determine which product to choose:
| Product | Key actives with stated concentrations | Type and place in the routine |
|---|---|---|
| Magic Foam Party | 2% niacinamide (CICA and PHA with no stated concentration) | Cleansing foam; morning and evening |
| Rice Rice Baby | 5% rice extract + 3% niacinamide | Toner; morning and evening |
| Glyc-Alright | 7% glycolic acid (AHA) + 2% niacinamide | Toner; evening |
| Rice You Up | 5% niacinamide + 5% rice extract | Serum; morning or evening |
| Smooth Me All Night | 4% niacinamide + 2.5% AHA (also contains low-concentration BHA) | Serum; evening only |
| Rice Vibes Only | 3% rice extract + 3% niacinamide | Peel-off mask; 1–2 times a week |
| Mic Drop | No concentration stated | Micellar cleansing water; morning and evening |
For radiance, choose Rice You Up Brightening Serum with Rice Extract; for the look of pores and uneven tone, choose Glyc-Alright Glycolic Acid Toner: the decision rests on the key active. For the PHA in the Magic Foam Party Foaming Face Cleanser formula, see our article what is PHA. Products whose labels include sensitive skin among the recommended skin types can be found in our collection of care products for sensitive skin.
Does Centella asiatica have side effects, and who should be careful?
The sources we rely on contain no safety assessment specific to centella; for this reason, we make no tolerance claim. The situations that call for care vary by product:
- Sensitive skin: containing centella does not on its own make a product suitable for sensitive skin. We explain how to start with actives in our article on sensitive skin care.
- If you react to plant extracts: according to the AAD, products with plant-based ingredients can also contain fragrance-related ingredients. If you have a known sensitivity to bisabolol or chamomile, do not use Rice Vibes Only, which contains bisabolol; if you have a known sensitivity to chamomile or yarrow, do not use Magic Foam Party, which contains both of these extracts.
- If you use acid products: in Glyc-Alright and Smooth Me All Night, centella does not change the rules on frequency or sunscreen. AHAs can increase the skin's sensitivity to the sun: apply sunscreen every morning while using this product and for one week after you stop. Glyc-Alright contains glycolic acid, and Smooth Me All Night contains AHA and BHA. If you are pregnant or breastfeeding, or have a skin condition, consult your doctor before use.
When moving to a new product, testing it on a small area first is especially important for those who react to plant extracts; you can find the steps in our guide on how to do a patch test. Stinging or redness that persists on the skin after Magic Foam Party or Rice Vibes Only may be a reaction to one of the plant extracts in the formula; in that case, stop using the product.
Frequently asked questions
Are CICA and centella the same thing?
Yes. CICA is the short name and gotu kola the common name. All three appear at s'hevec: “Centella Asiatica Extract” in the INCI lists, “CICA” in the description of Magic Foam Party and “gotu kola” in some product descriptions.
Does the CICA in a cleansing foam do anything?
In a rinse-off product, centella stays on the skin only briefly; a cleanser is not expected to have a serum's effect. For correct use, see our guide how to use a foaming face cleanser.
Does centella reduce the look of redness?
Controlled data on the effect of centella in a cosmetic product on the look of redness are limited; the findings in the review relate to a medical context. Redness on the cheeks and around the nose that has not gone away for weeks, or that becomes more visible in the heat or when you change products, may not be something a skincare product can explain; consult your doctor to find out the cause.
Can two products containing centella be used in the same routine?
Yes, each in its own place in the order: for example, the Rice You Up serum comes after the Rice Rice Baby toner. Because both products contain niacinamide, if sensitivity occurs, use one of them every other day; if you use Glyc-Alright in the evening, keep Rice Rice Baby for the morning.
Sources
- Bylka W et al. Centella asiatica in cosmetology. Postepy Dermatol Alergol. 2013.
- Ferreira MS et al. Sensitive skin: Active ingredients on the spotlight. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2022.
- American Academy of Dermatology (AAD). How to test skin care products.
This content is for information only and does not replace medical advice. s'hevec products are cosmetic products and are not intended for medical treatment. It was prepared by the s'hevec Team on the basis of the s'hevec product data library and the sources listed above.
