Ingredient Glossary
What does rice extract do in skincare? How a formula differs from rice water
What is in rice extract, where does the evidence stop, and why does homemade rice water not replace a formula? How it differs from…
Articles on this topic
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Pores
What is zinc PCA? What it does and how it differs from zinc oxide
What zinc PCA is, how it differs from zinc oxide and how far the evidence goes on the look of sebum and shine, with…
Sensitive Skin
What is Centella asiatica (CICA)? Its use in soothing skincare
CICA, gotu kola and Centella Asiatica Extract all refer to the same plant. We explain what centella is, the limits of the cosmetic evidence…
Ingredient Glossary
What is panthenol (pro-vitamin B5)? What does it do in skincare?
Panthenol (pro-vitamin B5) is a supporting ingredient used to support hydration and the skin barrier. We explain how it differs from dexpanthenol, where the…
Eye Area
What does caffeine do in skincare? What to expect around the eyes
What does caffeine do for the skin, and what can you expect for under-eye puffiness and dark circles? The limits of the evidence and…
Ingredient Glossary
What are ceramides? Their role in the skin barrier and in skincare
What do ceramides do in the skin barrier, what names do they appear under on labels, and what does “2% ceramide complex” mean? With…
Ingredient Glossary
What is copper peptide (GHK-Cu)? What it does and how it reaches the skin
What is copper peptide (GHK-Cu), and how much of the laboratory evidence carries over to the skin? Its definition, the limits of the evidence,…
Ingredient Glossary
What are peptides? Signal peptides, Argireline and Matrixyl in skincare
What a peptide is, which types are used in cosmetics and where the evidence reaches its limits. How Argireline and Matrixyl 3000 work, and…
Ingredient Glossary
What is azelaic acid? Where it comes from and how it works
What is azelaic acid, where does it come from and how does it work? How medicinal forms differ from a cosmetic cream, how it…
Ingredient Glossary
What is alpha arbutin? How it differs from tranexamic acid, and the look of dark spots
What is alpha arbutin, how does it differ from beta arbutin and tranexamic acid, and what does EU regulation say? With its role in…
Ingredient Glossary
What is tranexamic acid? Its use in skincare for the look of dark spots
What is tranexamic acid, is the form applied to the skin the same as the one used as a medicine, and can it be…
Ingredient Glossary
What is hyaluronic acid? Molecular weight and 8D hyaluronic acid
Hyaluronic acid is a humectant that attracts water, and its molecular weight determines how far it penetrates the skin. This article explains what 8D…