Ceramides are a family of lipids often seen in the ingredient lists of serums and creams that promise barrier support. Seeing ceramide on a label is not enough information on its own; knowing what name it appears under and why the formula is decisive makes choosing easier.
In short: Ceramides are fat molecules that, together with cholesterol and free fatty acids, form the intercellular lipids in the skin's outermost layer (stratum corneum); they are a key part of the barrier that limits water loss. On labels they appear under INCI names such as Ceramide NP. Love In Blue This Time contains a 2% ceramide complex (Ceracomplex Pro); in Any Time Of Day, a ceramide complex is a supporting ingredient with no stated concentration. Ceramides are not exfoliants.
| INCI name | Varies by type; Ceramide NP in both s'hevec products |
|---|---|
| What it does | Supports the barrier; helps limit water loss from the skin surface |
| Who it is for | Not only dry skin; the Any Time Of Day label also lists oily skin |
| Frequency | In the daily routine; on sensitive skin, keep Love In Blue This Time to a few evenings a week in the first weeks |
| Using it with others | Do not use Love In Blue This Time on the same evening as products containing AHA or BHA |
What are ceramides?
Ceramides are lipids formed by the combination of a sphingoid base and a fatty acid; the name refers not to a single molecule but to a family of molecules. In the skin they are found mostly in the stratum corneum, where, together with cholesterol and free fatty acids, they form the lipids that fill the spaces between dead cells (corneocytes). If the corneocytes are the bricks, these lipids are the mortar; they form tightly packed, layered (lamellar) structures between neighbouring cells.
What do ceramides do?
The main job of ceramides in the skin is, together with the other lipids, to build the barrier that limits water evaporation and protects against the passage of external factors. A recent review lists forming a moisture barrier, retaining moisture and contributing to the skin's pH balance among the established benefits of ceramides. According to a 2024 review of ceramide formulation, changes in ceramide levels and composition have been observed in various skin conditions in which the barrier is weakened; this is why appropriately formulated ceramides are recommended to help re-establish a disrupted lipid organisation. We describe the signs of a weakened barrier and how it can be supported in our article what is the skin barrier.
Which types of ceramide are used in cosmetics?
Ceramides enter cosmetic formulas in three ways: ceramides obtained from extracts, synthetic pseudo-ceramides designed with a structure similar to ceramides, and ceramide-like analogue molecules. On the label, however, they appear not as the word “ceramide” but under their INCI name; Ceramide NP is one of these names and appears in the ingredient lists of both Love In Blue This Time and Any Time Of Day.
What does “2% ceramide complex” mean?
The 2% in Love In Blue This Time is the concentration in the formula of the ceramide complex (Ceracomplex Pro) raw material; it does not mean that the formula contains 2% pure ceramide. That is why the product page says “2% ceramide complex” rather than “2% ceramide”. In the ingredient list, it is not the name of the complex but the ceramide itself that appears, as Ceramide NP. In Any Time Of Day, the concentration of the ceramide complex is not stated.
Why does the formula matter in a ceramide product?
The contribution of ceramides to the barrier depends on how well they are incorporated into the formula and on the lipid environment around them. According to the same 2024 review, ceramides require special processing, such as heating to high temperatures, before they are added to the final product; ceramides that remain undissolved in the formula reduce the formula's barrier support in barrier-impaired skin models (in the laboratory). The rest of the moisturiser also shapes the result: humectants draw water into the upper layer, emollients blend into the upper layer and strengthen the physical barrier, and occlusives cover the surface.
| Product | Ceramide | Key actives | Use |
|---|---|---|---|
| Love In Blue This Time (serum, 30 ml) | 2% ceramide complex | 2% Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (vitamin C derivative); copper tripeptide-1 and niacinamide with no stated concentration | Primarily in the evening; sensitive, dry, normal skin |
| Any Time Of Day (cream, 50 ml) | Ceramide complex, no stated concentration | 5% niacinamide + 2% 8D hyaluronic acid | Morning and evening; water-based and silicone-free; all skin types |
Love In Blue This Time Ceramide and Copper Peptide Serum carries the ceramide complex as a key active; its place in the evening routine is covered in the guide how to use a ceramide serum. Any Time Of Day Water-Based Moisturising Cream uses the ceramide complex as a supporting ingredient in a hydration-focused cream. Serums and creams focused on hydration and the barrier can also be found together among our moisturisers. Deep, established wrinkles are not the focus of Love In Blue This Time.
Can ceramides be used on oily skin?
Yes; barrier support is not something only dry skin needs, and shine and the need for hydration are separate matters. The Any Time Of Day label also lists oily and combination skin; these skin types can keep their hydration step with a water-based, silicone-free formula. The cream does not stop sebum production. If dryness is your priority, see our dry skin care routine.
Do ceramides have side effects, and who should take care?
In a ceramide product, possible reactions are determined not by the ceramide alone but by the whole formula: according to a review of moisturisers, auxiliary substances such as emulsifiers and preservatives can have more noticeable effects on the skin than is often assumed; emulsifiers, for example, can weaken the barrier.
- Sensitive skin: Before first use, do a patch test on the inner forearm. If redness, itching or burning occurs, stop using the product.
- If you use acids: do not use Love In Blue This Time on evenings when you use a toner or peel containing AHA or BHA (product warning).
- Irritated skin: do not apply to cracked, broken or irritated areas. If dryness, flaking or itching persists, see your doctor rather than waiting it out with a moisturiser.
Ceramides are found in the skin's own lipid structure; but in a ceramide product, it is the whole formula that needs to be assessed: Love In Blue This Time also carries a vitamin C derivative and copper tripeptide-1, and Any Time Of Day also carries niacinamide. If you are pregnant or breastfeeding, or have a skin condition, consult your doctor before use.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between ceramides and hyaluronic acid?
Ceramides are part of the lipid barrier between cells; hyaluronic acid is a humectant that draws water into the upper layer. One targets the structure that limits water loss, the other the water itself; Any Time Of Day combines both in the same cream.
Can ceramides and niacinamide be used together?
Yes. In both s'hevec products, niacinamide comes straight after water in the ingredient list and is in the same formula as the ceramide. If you use separate products, apply the serum first and the cream after it.
Can ceramides be in the same product as a vitamin C derivative?
Yes; Love In Blue This Time combines the ceramide complex with 2% Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid) in the same serum. Do not add a separate pure ascorbic acid (vitamin C) serum on the same evening.
Are ceramides used in the day or at night?
It depends on the product: Any Time Of Day is used morning and evening, Love In Blue This Time primarily in the evening. The morning routine ends with sunscreen.
Sources
- Schild J et al. The role of ceramides in skin barrier function and the importance of their correct formulation for skincare applications. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2024.
- Yong TL et al. Ceramides and Skin Health: New Insights. Exp Dermatol. 2025.
- Rajkumar J et al. The Skin Barrier and Moisturization: Function, Disruption, and Mechanisms of Repair. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2023.
- Lodén M. Role of topical emollients and moisturizers in the treatment of dry skin barrier disorders. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2003.
This content is for information only and does not replace medical advice. s'hevec products are cosmetic products and are not intended for medical treatment. It was prepared by the s'hevec Team on the basis of the s'hevec product data library and the sources listed above.
